The traditional Italian brand Brioni, presented last Saturday, its autumn-winter 2023 men’s collection, at Palazzo Citterio in Milan. Versatile, timeless clothes that do not lose the Maison’s tradition are part of the collection.
Brioni’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection is the path of now, which carries the conscience of history, introducing a journey that starts under a classic Italian commune and leads to an underground space hidden by concrete. The collection translates the idea of theater and life into a square: the stage par excellence of Italian social life, a crossroads of experiences and styles.
The idea of travel is translated into movement and fluidity, in designs that accompany the body and its movement. The jackets are longer, the pants more voluminous, the shoulders more defined. Soft tailoring gains more life, reflected in pieces for different occasions. Well-being is explored as a holistic feeling and its texture becomes an analysis, comfort for the mind.
Clothes for real moments and experiences, made to be relevant today and tomorrow: tailored blazers, coats, jackets, shirts and jeans. Leather adds depth and texture: wool coats, sweaters, blazers with crocodile cutouts recycled from the Brioni archives. At night, a touch of sparkle: jackets with a collar, tuxedos with jacquard lapels and, to top it off, accessories such as boots, leather backpacks and handbags.
The color palette is strong in blacks, creams and natural tones, with hints of turquoise and tobacco. A Roman Caravaggio way of dealing with color: a kind of chiaroscuro, taken to tactile heights by choosing the finest wools, silks, leathers and velvets.
A handful of tailored garments offer the same tailoring flexibility for women. Blazers, trench coats, capes, as well as shirts and tuxedos evolve directly from menswear using the same fabrics, but with a touch of femininity. The shirts are elongated; the white tuxedo becomes a coat; a long skirt with satin details offers a new option for an evening look.
